Problems Starting The Engine Print
Thursday, 17 April 2008 12:11

Hydraulic lock. Excess fuel in the chamber. Remove the glow plug, turn the car upside down and allow excess to fuel to run away

Ignition problems. Remove the plug and try lighting the plug, if there is not a strong glow the wire in the plug may have broken but first check the ignition battery

Fuel starvation. Check all pipe work and fuel tank for blockages. Be careful when removing the needles from the carb to ensure exact replacement once cleaned. Settings to lean top and bottom.

Wrong type of fuel. When choosing a fuel you should select a well known brand and one which will suit your application. On road engines are designed to use less oil (5-8%) than off road (10-12%). Also make sure to check you use the correct Nitro content for your engine. Check instructions for the correct recommendations.

No idle. Engine too lean on bottom so starving the engine, or too rich so flooding the engine with fuel. No compression between piston and sleeve, engine has become to hot and worn out. Idle to closed when carb is shut. Wrong type of fuel for your engine.
When running the engines it is just as important to keep the air filters clean and well oiled. This will help keep the internals of the engine clean and again reduce wear and increase life and reliability.

After-Run Oil. It's recommended that you remove the glow plug and place a couple of drops of After-Run oil in the cylinder as well as in the carb throat.

AM. Amplitude Modulation. Most RTR or ready-to-run kits come with an AM radio system, which is suitable for most newcomers. More serious racers will opt for FM or PCM radios that are less prone to glitching.

Ball End. The ball and is a metal ball with a hex and screw threads on one end. A ball cup attaches over the ball end to provide a pivot point.